At our house, this fast and fancy little number is also known as "Pirate Stew", a name inspired by one of my favourite children's books, The Troll written by Julia Donaldson, author of the beloved Gruffalo franchise. In it, a hapless Troll desperate to eat a goat (à la Three Billy Goats Gruff), is captured by a gang of fish-loving pirates with poor culinary skills. The Troll is saved from jumping the plank when Pirate Peg Pokadot discovers his cookery book and frying pan. Sick of their own bony, briny, slimy cooking, the Pirates spare the Troll's life and make him the ship's cook. Sadly for the Troll, when he turns to his "favourite page in his cookery book" a recipe for a nice goat stew, the incredulous Pirates inform him that he will be cooking fish and only fish, because that is what pirates are supposed eat.
As someone who has many favourite pages in many cookbooks, I feel terrible for the poor old Troll who will never realize his lifelong epicurean dream of cooking and eating a goat stew. So as comfort, I imagine that at least if he's destined to a life full of fish stew, it is something akin to this perfectly creamy, white wine and dill scented dish that appeared in Bon Appétit a couple of years ago.
This stew takes under half an hour from start to finish, and it's elegant enough to feel special, but simple enough to make any old night of the week. It's a cozy bowl full of fragrant chowder-like broth studded with bits of fennel and satisfying chunks of fish and potato. I enjoy sopping up the broth with a thick slice of buttered wholegrain bread, so as not to waste a drop. This is undoubtedly a meal to warm the cockles of the heart - even the cockles of pirates, trolls, picky children and tired adults.
FISH STEW WITH FENNEL AND BABY POTATOES
From Bon Appétit
1/4 cup olive oil
8 oz baby potatoes, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1/2 medium bulb of fennel, finely chopped
2 to 3 cloves of garlic, minced
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 cups of broth or water
1/4 cup crème fraîche
1 1/2 lbs skinless white fish, cut in 2 inch pieces (I used local pickerel)*
2 tbsp. chopped fresh dill
1. Heat the olive oil in a large pan over medium high heat. Cook potatoes until beginning to soften, around 3 minutes.
2. Add fennel, garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 2 minutes, until fennel is soft, stirring occasionally.
3. Add wine, bring to a boil and reduce until almost evaporated. Pour in 2 cups of broth. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, until potatoes are soft.
4. Stir in fish and crème fraîche and simmer for 4 minutes, or until fish is just cooked through. Sprinkle in the fresh dill, and more salt and pepper, to taste.
Serve with lemon wedges, if desired (the recipe calls for this, but I actually prefer it with out the lemon)
*I haven't tried it with anything but white fish, as per the recipe, but I think it would be just as delicious with other types of fish including trout, cold smoked trout or salmon, or even shrimp.